Our quest for Quetzals’ begins on November 15, 2019, from our home just outside of Dryden, Ontario, Canada. Over 121 days we travel from Canada, down through the United States of America, through Mexico and into Guatemala. But the return journey only took 5 days.
Day 1 November 15, 2019
Dryden, Ontario, Canada
Our adventure begins at 14:30 as we leave home in our Pleasureway camper van purchased earlier in the summer from Harold (Annette) Wilson, Kakabeka Falls, Ontario.
Over the last month or so Dan worked on the van, fine tuning the mechanical components. Found a wheel bearing, rear differential, transmission oil/filter, brake caliper and a few other things that might have given us trouble along the way.
The inside of the van had some space which could be better utilized for storage. Behind the drivers chair was another area for sitting which we changed into a storage unit. Dan built a shelving unit expanding our storage at least 2 fold. We also added shelves in the closet providing some more very important storage space. When you are gone from home for 4 ½ to 5 months living in a campervan you quickly realize every square inch of storage space is essential.
Pointed the van east on Hwy 17 toward Thunder Bay, planning to stop at CAA to obtain our international driver’s license as recommended by several overland travelers. Prior to the driving portion of our adventure, there was a lot of preparation, not only the work on the van but also research on the internet. We found numerous blogs and vlogs about overlanding the Americas. Mostly young couples but they had a lot of information we have found helpful in planning our travels south.
On route to Thunder Bay we stopped in Happyland trailer park and campground to visit Harold and Annette Wilson (purchased van). Harold is 93 years old and no longer able to use the camper so wanted to sell it. Annette is his companion and dancing partner when they were younger (in their 80s). We had a great visit and parked in their driveway for the night. Harold allowed us to plug in our little heater so we could warm up our sleeping area. It was a little cool (-10C) even for us. They offered us free parking any time we visit on Chickadee lane.
Day 2 November 16, 2019
Chickadee Lane, Kakabeka Falls, Ontario, Canada
Woke early about 7a.m. Bed a little too firm but had a good sleep. No condensation on the windows this morning, which I thought might be a problem. Learning ways to get by with no water in tanks as temperature is too cold, we have plumber’s antifreeze in lines and tanks to prevent freezing until we hit warmer weather. Example brushing teeth with only a small amount of water from our drinking jugs and will do dishes at Orval and Judy’s (Dan’s Aunt and Uncle) once we arrive there.
Dan checked the van over and said everything was good to go. Dressed quickly as it was -10C outside and van was cool even with the little heater on. We drove over to Kakabeka Falls to take some pictures.
The falls was beautiful. Large portions were frozen in wave and icicle formations. Small sections still had water flowing creating more icy formations. We walked the board walks taking pictures from all different angles. As it was early morning we had the park to ourselves. Once the fingers were too cold to take any more photos we moved on to Thunder Bay and the CAA store.
We did not have anything to make for breakfast so we stopped at Walmart just inside city limits and picked up some pancake mix. Measure, pour, and add water, mix and cook. Breakfast prepared, cooked and eaten in Walmart parking lot.
As we made our way down town to CAA we encountered some small detours as a few streets were blocked off for the Santa Clause parade. November 16 seems very early for a Santa parade and even early in the day. We are used to our parade which happens in early December and in the evening so all the lights can be appreciated.
Once at CAA we were able to get our international driver’s licenses for $25 each. We asked about Canadian flag stickers but they did not have any. We thought putting something on the driver’s door that identified us as Canadians might be advantageous during our travels. We checked several other stores before we found some at the airport gift shop. Applied the stickers to driver’s door and back door by handle then headed out of town on Hwy 61 to the USA border and Pidgeon River crossing.
We stopped just before border to have lunch of homemade pea soup. Not really hungry yet but we can’t take it across the border and did not want to throw it away.
There was only one car in front of us at the border. Pleasant border guard examined our Nexus cards, asked a few questions and we were quickly on our way. Followed Hwy 61 along north shore of Lake Superior to Duluth stopping a few times along the way to stretch our legs and take some photos.
Stopped for fuel in Tofte, Minnesota
US $ 2.64 per US gallon
1 US gallon = 3.78 litres (according to Dan)
2.64/3.78 = .69$ US per litre
Using currency conversion on Spendee app .99$ CAD per litre (price of gas in Dryden was $1.28 per litre)
Tried to stop at Split Rock State Park and light house but there was a $7 charge for the day, we just wanted to take some pictures so decided not to go in. A short distance down the highway we pulled over on a side road and were rewarded with a great view and picture spot for the lighthouse, no charge. Using the 400mm lens made it look like we were standing right beside it.
Next stop was at Gooseberry Falls State Park. No entrance fee to walk around the many trails with viewing spots of upper and lower falls. Several people using the trails but did not seem crowded. We did a loop around the lower and upper falls, taking pictures and enjoying the feeling of stretching our legs after sitting so long. Next stop Uncle Orval and Judy’s.
Using our paper map and map.me app we were able to find the pretty blue house on Tower Ave., (state Hwy. 35) Wisconsin. Arrived about 5ish, a little later than planned. They are living on Judy’s family farm. The house is really big for the era it was built in, early 1900’s. The house is old but they have continued to keep it up and look after it with love. We met Adam (Judy’s nephew, son of her brother Kenny) and Adam’s daughter Lena. Good visit and got up on some news. Both Orval and Judy have had some health issues but are in good spirits and sense of humor is still intact. Early to bed and early to rise for day 3 of our adventure.
Day 3 November 17, 2019
Uncle Orval and Judy’s, Tower Ave., Hwy 35, south of Duluth, Wisconsin
Woke up to some snow on the ground and fog in the air. Coffee with Orval and Judy and reminiscing over some family reunion photos before hitting the road.
Headed south on state Hwy 35 to Danbury, then west on Hwy 48 to meet up with interstate 35. Plan is to follow interstate 35 south towards St. Paul, Minnesota and continue on south to Kansas City and Oklahoma City. Small scenic detour when highway 35 divided into 35 west to Minneapolis and 35 east to St. Paul. We encountered some construction at the point of highway dividing so it was a little confusing. Went west when we should have stayed on 35 east to avoid heavier traffic in the core of the cities. Made it back to 35 east without much delay.
Drove another hour or so and then stopped at a Gander outdoor/camping store. We purchased a folding aluminum picnic table and a few other items for our adventure. While Dan did a few up grades on the camper I made another meal of pancakes. Did not set off the fire alarm this time! Need to open a window and use the fan above the stove for ventilation. After breakfast it was back to the road and head south looking for warmer weather.
Current plan is to head south on interstate highway 35 to Oklahoma City. We quickly left Minnesota behind and entered Iowa. Land is fairly flat with lots of open areas and fields. Small ponds have some ice but not frozen over. Canadian geese seen flying and on the open water.
Stopped in Des Moines, Iowa for fuel and picked up groceries in Osceola, Iowa. After driving a while longer, we left Iowa, entered Missouri, left Missouri in the dark, we overnighted in Ottawa. No, not Ottawa, Canada but Ottawa, Kansas. We found a parking spot at the tourist information centre.
Day 4 November 18, 2019
Ottawa, Kansas, U.S.A
Dan up at 5:30 for some reason and we were on the road by 6:10, continuing south on interstate 35. It was a late night and my body is not used to the camper bed yet so woke up tired and sore, but the beautiful sun rise made me feel better. The golden hour was in all its full glory this morning, shining on the brown grass of the open rolling hills and prairie of Kansas.
Wind picked up at 7:30ish making it difficult to drive. The van catches a lot of wind especially a cross wind and then meeting transports or when they pass us. Hard work driving. Water on the ponds open, no ice or snow anywhere to be seen. All the vegetation, grass and brush are brown and dry.
Stopped for fuel just south of Wichita at Belle Plaine, Kansas. We were able to fill water tanks at this stop as well. Purchased a coffee at McDonald’s and accessed the free Wi-Fi at the visitor information centre and downloaded maps.me for remainder of Kansas and Oklahoma. Temp outside 17.3C. I was able to send a message to Cathy so she knows where we are.
I am finding it a little difficult navigating with only paper maps, especially cities and surrounding areas. App maps.me is working well but didn’t have all the maps downloaded that I needed. After fueling up we headed a little further south on interstate 35 until exiting onto state highway 160 west. Toll to exit interstate 35 was $6.75USD.
While at the information centre I picked up some travel pamphlets about the area. One of them described some scenic byways for driving in Kansas but we had already passed most of them. We did not want to double back so we did the only one going in the general direction we wanted to go, Gypsum Scenic byway on state highway 160 west
Some of the scenic vistas included cotton fields in full bloom and other fields picked and bundled similar to our large round hay bales. Red soil, buttes, canyons, mesas and sinkholes are all part of the Gypsum Hills Scenic Byway according to the “Byways of Kansas” magazine. We say the red soil, buttes, mesas and numerous birds of prey, mostly red tail hawks.
Crossed over into Oklahoma during the afternoon. I suggested and we looked at Alabaster Caverns State Park for camping. The sign on the door of the park office said to get a permit from their website or office but office was closed and we do not have a data plan for the USA so not able to get permit on line either. I thought we could stay any way and just pay in the morning but Dan didn’t want to pay 40 or $50 dollars for the night but he did not actually know how much the camping fee was. So drove another 100 miles or so to park in a paved truck parking lot next to a gas station (but it was free) in Hooker, Oklahoma.
Day 5 November 19, 2019
Hooker, Oklahoma, U.S.A
outside temperature 5C, glad we brought our jackets along
With the insulated coverings on all the van windows and ear plugs in we got a decent sleep despite all the trucks sitting idling all night.
Up and left at 7:30ish, driving south west on state highway 54 heading toward Albuquerque, New Mexico. We drove through a small section of northern Texas, very flat, open and brown. You can watch your dog run away for 3 days (at least).
We had a late breakfast at Romero, Texas. A rest area along the Canadian River was our stopping spot for the morning. Walked down to the river following breakfast but it was bone dry. Hopped back in our home on wheels after doing the dishes and tidying up, southwest bound on highway 54. Wind is really picking up again.
Trying to travel around a foreign country without cell service is not working out so well. We tried doing it with just free internet when we were able to access it but that was not very often. We struggled to use apps other than the previously downloaded maps on the app maps.me. We could not use ioverlander, google or freecampsite apps to locate camping spots, groceries or other facilities. So we had to give in and spend $50 USD or so, on an AT&T sim card.
On free internet I am able to locate a Best Buy in Albuquerque, New Mexico that sells sim cards. We found the store using maps.me (getting to love this app). With a little help from a staff member I was able to buy an AT&T sim card for $8.98USD. He was able to provide some information on how to install and get the sim card set up, to me, a low techy kind of person. Out to the van I go to play with the sim card but frustration sets in very quickly. Back into the store, the Geek Squad was able to help get the phone set up. Now just shut it down and wait 10 minutes to turn it back on. Easy peasy he said. Dan and I chatted while we waited the 10 minutes. Turned the phone back on, all the lights and apps came back but could not use or send texts or data. Back into the store I went. The nice guy from the Geek Squad that helped me previously was busy so a young lady with pink hair asked if she could help me. I explained my situation and she told me “we do not support that service” (helping to set up the sim card), she recommended I wait for the guy that helped me before or I could go to an AT&T store. I elected to go to an AT&T store.
Using maps.me again, we found an AT&T store. Mark & Brad were extremely helpful staff members. Glad we choose to come here because they too struggled to get the sim card set up and the prepaid plan arranged. Following a test call we were on our way once again.
Using new data, found a gas station to fuel up and a free campsite for the night. Stayed overnight at a rest stop on Interstate 25 up near Santa Fe. Nice spot, clean, paved, level area for camper, bathrooms acceptable, a little noisy as we were near the highway.
Day 6, November 20, 2019
Santa Fe, New Mexico, U.S.A
Up early, cold and raining outside. Accessory battery was dead, left the water pump and water heater on. Van battery good and van started no problems. We charged the accessory battery as we traveled during the day.
First stop was at the Randall Davey Audubon Centre – great hiking trails, garden and bird feeding stations. We spent most of the morning here. Seven mule deer and numerous birds kept us company. The first birds we saw were Juncos and Robins, getting reacquainted with some of our summer birds.
Second stop was at the Bandelier National Monument. Shortly after arriving it started raining and even some hail so we quickly returned to the van. A couple ladies had just completed the trail and offered us their day pass worth $25, a sure sign we should explore this area as soon as it stops raining. We were able to complete the loop hike, up ladders, cross the large flat rock (Dan said it was their dance hall), follow the ledge on the side of the cliff, up and over some rock face, walk the trail on top of the bluff, down another ladder and return to starting point. One of the really amazing aspects of this spot was being able to walk in the exact same foot prints of the ancestral people that lived here. Some spots along the trails were grooves worn in the soft rock as deep as my hips. Numerous pictures taken.
Had some trouble with the van after leaving Bandelier. Dan turned on the head lights by pulling the switch and then all the gauges started acting funny. Turn off the lights and everything worked okay again. Drove for a little bit going over bumps and playing with the light switch then all the gauges started working well and continued to work well.
After our hike we drove highway 4 towards Jemez Springs. Plan was to find some hot springs (research pointed us toward Jemez Springs) and soak for a bit after all the hiking today. We were going up and up, twisting and turning on a two lane paved road. It soon started raining and even some sleet. Forecast is calling for snow at this elevation but was not supposed to start until tomorrow.
We eventually arrived at Jemez Springs and stopped at a local gift shop/outfitter store to ask for directions. Fellow at shop was very helpful and provided information regarding hot springs in the area and even recommended a place to camp for the night. He said it would be better to get to lower elevations with the snow coming. We found the camp site he recommended, Vista Linda’s, but it was cash only on an honor system. Cost was only $10 but we only had $4.00USD, was going to give them Canadian dollars but the sign said no foreign currency and no cheques. Our honor said we could not stay. I was quite disappointed as I was looking forward to the hot springs. Oh well, I am sure there will be more hot springs in our travels.
Ended up driving down the mountain in the dark and stayed overnight at Walmart in Bernilillo – groceries, wine, supper, and then bed.
Day 7 November 21/2019 cold, raining 39F
Bernalillo, New Mexico, U.S.A.
Accessory battery dead again. Luckily we are parked in the Walmart parking lot. Old battery removed, new one purchased and installed.
Used ATM in Walmart to withdraw some American cash using our Stack prepaid MasterCard. ATM local fee $3.50
Too cold here, heading further south. Interstate 25 south to Los Lunas, used free dumping station at Heritage Centre. The ioverlander app helped us find this dumping station and many other spots so far on this trip, it has been extremely helpful.
Socorro – checked out free campsite by Rio Grande – nice, flat, picnic tables but a little worried about the water level of the river with all the rain the area has had over the last couple of days.
- Checked out “The Box”, free campsite down Hwy 60 about 12km from Socorro. Very scenic, level ground, hiking trail, pit toilets, some great photo opportunities. Almost didn’t make it back up the road to the highway, red dirt road, very slippery when wet, especially trying to go up hill. Might have to stay on upper level if it doesn’t stop raining today.
- Checked out Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge – hoping it will clear up this afternoon, looks promising for tomorrow.
- Bosque del Apache NWR – stopped at visitor centre – good information and map
- Festival of Cranes currently going on – every year the week before Thanksgiving
- Great evening shoot at top of north loop – snow geese and Sandhill cranes by the hundreds. Several hawks sited as well, mostly red tail
Slept at Socorro – east end of Otera, close to the Rio Grande. Nothing special but quiet enough to have a shower outside.